Bagan temple fields are really a highlight – over 2000 temples and pagodas – built in only 250 years starting approx. 1000 years ago…
We have chosen to get spoilt and to stay in a very nice hotel (Blue Bird in New Bagan) and to take our time to explore the 40 km2 by bicycle (no Mountainbike, just a local bike without gears – repair stations on the way and definitely needed). Two challenging factors: the temperature (39 degrees in the shade) but with mercyless sun and the unpaved “paths” between the two main roads leading to the hidden gems…
The pagodas and temples used to be painted in white (or with golden tops) with fine decoration. The last couple of hundred years have washed away the outside decoration in most cases – whats left is the red brick stone which is now the dominating color.
Inside, many temples have been beautifully painted with the stories of the life(s) of Buddha. Unfortunately 100 years ago, some pseudo archeologists took away quite some of those frescos and most of them have disappeared. Other paintings have been “repainted” by locals, unfortunately not as artful as the originals. Fortunately, some are still there and can be seen with a torch (also of great use before sunrise / after sunset when cycling around as the local bikes have no light).
Most magnificent is sunrise (also nice sunset but instead of being alone, you have to share with 100s other tourists and souvenir vendors) from the top of a temple. It took us quite some time to find the Pyathada Pagoda, in the middle of the Pagoda field with a great rooftop terrace, muuuuch bigger than ours in Bonn. Cannot describe how beautiful the view is, you have to see yourself.
Old Bagan offers quite some nice food options, small restaurants like Starbeam (the couple met in a hotel kitchen and they opened their own little restaurant when they learned all the tricks – some fine cuisine on the side of the street) and Moon (a veggi restaurant with good food and friendly service, picked by Thorsten!!).
And shopping is all about laquerware – lets see if we take some souvenirs home… *smiley winking* Producing that stuff is really lots of work, don’t really want to count the hourly wages of the producers…
Side story: We got flight tickets from Nyang U (Bagan) to Heho (Inle) issued by hand – yes, this was the online booking with pickup at the Air Mandalay Office at Mandalay Airport… to get them / pick them up, just pass the departure security gate (beep – oh, for ticket pickup no problem) and check out that little door in the corner (could also well be a storage room… ) – uhhh, a customer – friendly smile and hectic movements… Actually the tickets were hand written by in total 5 people and another party on the phone, paid in cash and it felt like 20 years ago…
